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Application skills of α - arbutin in whitening and brightening products
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  • Product Category: Project
  • product description:Skin whitening is the common pursuit of Asians.
  • Skin whitening is the common pursuit of Asians. Since 2014, with the explosive development of wechat and e-commerce, consumers who pursue "one white covers all ugly" are increasingly facing the risks of various harmful cosmetics such as "toxic mask", "hydroquinone containing cosmetics", "Mercury exceeding the standard" while using whitening skin care products.     As a scientific research and engineering technician of cosmetics, it is necessary to use safe and efficient whitening agents to achieve whitening and skin lightening effects while using prohibited substances not illegally added in cosmetics health and safety regulations. Here I recommend the safe whitening ingredient α - arbutin, and introduce its use skills in whitening skin care products.     I. laws and regulations    In 2015, SCCS was persuaded by DSM's detailed safety file on α - arbutin to believe that α - arbutin is a safe substance for cosmetics. SCCS said in its latest opinion: when the content of α - arbutin in facial care products does not exceed 2% and in body care products does not exceed 0.5%, it is safe.     The domestic regulations mainly follow the SCCS regulations of the European Union. In the current version (2015) of the used cosmetics raw materials catalogue, α - arbutin is listed as 01005 α - arbutin alpha arbutin.     II. Mechanism and efficacy    As a whitening agent, α - arbutin mainly inhibits the activity of monophenol enzyme and prevents the conversion of L-tyrosine to L-dopa catalyzed by tyrosinase. α - arbutin has a strong inhibitory effect on the monophenol enzyme of tyrosinase. At the same time, α - arbutin has a certain activating effect on the diphenolase of tyrosinase, and the mechanism is a mixture of competitive and non competitive Many clinical studies have shown that α - arbutin has a unique effect on promoting skin tone uniformity.     α - arbutin can significantly inhibit the activity of the enzyme, reduce the deposition of tyrosinase in the skin, and has the functions of bleaching, anti discoloration and freckle removal. At the same time, the derivatives of α - arbutin, nicotinamide, ascorbic acid glucoside (AA2G), carbamic acid and heptanol have good synergistic effect, and have excellent whitening and lightening effect.     The difference between α - arbutin and β - arbutin    1. Compared with β - arbutin, α - arbutin is added less, only 1 / 5 ~ 1 / 4 of β - arbutin is needed, and the addition of β - arbutin in general cosmetics is less than 5%, which can ensure safety. Over the counter OTC and medical burn and other external skin preparations ≤ 10%.     2. It is not easy to change color and degrade, does not inhibit cell growth, and has no cytotoxicity     3. No risk of hydroquinone release.     The specific comparison between the two is shown in the attached figure    A kind of     IV. use skills    1. The solubility of α - arbutin is 151g / L (20 ℃). When the temperature is lower than 70 ℃ or medium low temperature, it is easy to blend with other ingredients in the formula. When the pH of the system is adjusted between 4.0-6.5, water can be dissolved and added to mix evenly. The system has good stability and is not easy to change color.     2. Recommended addition amount:    Water products: 0.2% - 2.0%, essence products: 0.2% - 2.0%, emulsion, cream, gel products: 0.3-3.0%, facial mask paste: 0.3-2.0%, BB cream, CC cream: 0.5-2.0%     3. It has synergistic effect with nicotinamide 0.5-1.0%.     4. When applying for freckle whitening cream, the recommended dosage of α - arbutin combined with ascorbic glucoside AA2G and nicotinamide is: α - arbutin: 1.0-2.0%, nicotinamide: 0.5-1.0%, AA2G: 1-2%      V. current domestic and foreign laws and regulations    In recent years, α - arbutin has been the focus of EU security debate. In 2010, SCCS called on companies to provide them with safety data of α - arbutin after a letter of opinion on β - arbutin was issued in 2008 (SCCP / 1158 / 08). In response to this call, DSM safety and regulatory experts submitted a detailed product dossier to SCCS to demonstrate the safety of alpha arbutin. In particular, DSM submitted the estimated release of hydroquinone, the stability data of α - arbutin in the prepared cosmetics and the test results explaining the behavior of α - arbutin on the skin for SCCS safety assessment.      DSM introduced alpha arbutin into the cosmetics industry more than ten years ago. After entering the Chinese market for many years, it has not been widely used in the Chinese market due to its cost performance. At present, few of domestic manufacturers produce α - arbutin,Now Leader Biogroup is the largest production capacity. At present, it has achieved the effect of scale industrialization. At present, its annual production capacity has reached 150 tons, becoming an important production supplier of α - arbutin in the world. It is hoped that in the near future, with the decrease of the production cost of α - arbutin, it will be more economical to realize the application of cosmetics industry.     

    Remarks:    α - arbutin    

    English Name: alpha arbutin,    

    Chemical name: alpha arbutin    

    Alias: alpha arbutin; 4-hydrobenzoquinone-alpha-d-glucopyranoside;    Hydroquinone alpha-d-glucoside; α - arbutin; 4-hydroxybenzene-α - d-glucopyranoside.    

    Molecular formula: c12h16o7    

    Molecular weight: 272.25.



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